This is a special creation, a recreation based on taste memory of a memorable chocolate cake that Chef Saegusa ate in Italy during his trip in Europe.

"Amongst I've tried, there was one chocolate cake that struck me with its delicate flavor. Chocolate cakes often tend to be quite simple. Many of them have the same flavor that continues from the first bite to the last, but the one I encountered in Italy left an impression of experiencing various depths of chocolate flavor while eating.

Its appearance was truly a simple chocolate cake. However, when you taste it, you can sense a depth of flavor with different tones and textures. I wanted to create a taste with depth like that, so I ended up with what is now known as "Al Cioccolata."

You can fully enjoy the charm of chocolate in the cake "Al Cioccolata". It's impossible not to touch specific choice of Chef Shunsuke Saegusa to the authentic aroma of cocoa beans to know more about it deeper.

Chef Saegusa is also known as a pioneer of Bean to Bar, handling all processes of chocolate from bean selection, roasting to molding. He has been discerning the characteristics of various cocoa beans from different regions and continuously creating numerous original chocolates since 2014, at his workshop "Artisan Palet D'or" in Kiyosato.

Chef Saegusa's signature chocolate, also featured in the shop's name, is the "Palet D'or" chocolate, meaning "golden disc" in French, this bonbon chocolate is adorned with luxurious gold leaf from Kanazawa, captivating with its simplicity. With just one bite, it brings the vividness of cocoa beans, elegant aromas, reminiscent of dried fruits, a deep richness to black sugar, and a lingering aftertaste.

The "Al Cioccolata" is made with homemade chocolate made from the same "Gran Couva" cocoa beans same as the "Palet D'or".

"The main part of our flavors relies on cocoa beans from the Gran Couva estate in Trinidad and Tobago, a Caribbean island nation. While I visit various cocoa farms, many of them separate between the farmers and those who process the beans. However, the Gran Couva farm handles everything from cultivation to bean fermentation, drying, and shipping, ensuring perfect management."

When you crack and open the cocoa fruit, called cocoa pod, you'll find white, pulpy flesh inside. Fermenting and drying this pulp turns it to brown color, transforming the seeds inside into cocoa beans, the raw material for chocolate.

"The pulp fermentation accelerates rising temperatures and changing pH levels. We ferment it for about a week, stirring it to ensure proper fermentation, which significantly changes the final taste. Central and South America have low humidity, resulting in beautifully dried cocoa.

Chocolate flavor is greatly influenced not only by cocoa variety and terroir (natural factors like climate and soil) but also by each step of intervention, from cultivation to fermentation and drying. I believe the cocoa from the Gran Couva farm is the best I've encountered so far."

"Al Cioccolata" which features chocolate made from the finest cocoa, serves as the main part of its flavor. Available at the salon of "Chocolatier Palet D'or" established by Chef Saegusa in Umeda, Osaka and Marunouchi, Tokyo you can enjoy it as part of the "Gateau set" for ¥1,600 (excluding tax), which includes recommended chocolates for cakes and drinks.

Among the various cakes, this particular dish stands out for its strong cocoa flavor, popular from chocolate lovers. Despite its moderate sweetness, it's delicately balanced by the chocolatier expert, offering a sublime harmony between the cocoa, which the brain perceives as delicious, and sweetness. It's recommended even for those who are not fan of sweet desserts. Why not give it a try and taste it?

The cocoa beans from the Gran Couva farm, which Chef Saegusa says as the best he has ever encountered, takes the part of the foundational chocolate for the shop. While many chocolatiers purchase couverture from chocolate manufacturers, why does Chef Saegusa takes his time to make from cocoa beans?

"Actually that is one of the reasons why I decided to become a chocolatier from patissier."

When he was a patissier, Chef Saegusa visited the renowned Lyon-based "Bernachon," famous for making chocolate from cocoa beans. These days, where various manufacturers produce a wide range of chocolates, he questioned the meaning of making chocolate from scratch.

"I was shocked. I had never thought the freshness of chocolate before. The moment I stepped into the workshop, or even just opening the package, it was like the scent of chocolate rising gently, like the magic lamp of Aladdin. It was a different level.

Even after changing to a chocolatier and opening 'Chocolatier Palet D'or,' at first, I used high-quality couverture from manufacturers like Verona and Domori, while experimenting with various chocolates. I could make sufficiently delicious ones, when it came to combining them with other ingredients, I often ended up with a result that I was not imagining. To achieve to a flavor I was looking for, I ended up thinking that I had to make it myself."

To further carry to extreme chocolate made from cocoa beans, he closed the pastry brand he had managed and stepped into a new journey as a chocolatier at the age of 57. What is the charm of cocoa that has moved Chef Saegusa's heart?

"In recent years, as cocoa nibs (roasted and crushed cocoa beans) have gained recognition as superfoods, cocoa beans brings benefits to human body. If there's any concern for health, it's sugar added afterward. Cocoa itself is compatible with the human body, however, it's not suitable for other animals.

And it's transformed into chocolate by human hands. Chocolate solidifies with cocoa butter, an oil component, with a melting point of 34.5°C. But there's no one with a body temperature lower than that, right? Even chocolate taken straight from a freezer melts in the mouth. As it melts, the aroma and flavor spread instantly inside your mouth, with additional scents. These scents vary depending on the beans and their origin. Blending them creates even more complexity. There aren't many foods like that.

Furthermore, chocolate is known regardless borders, people from all over the world, race or generation, everyone loves it. There are no religious constraints either. It's the best food given to human. Chocolatier's job is to spread its popularity and provide various flavors. I believe it's a value worth spending my lifetime."

With this thoughts, Chef Saegusa has created numerous chocolate products. Among them is a drink, "Chocola Nespa?!"

It's a fuzzy drink with chocolate-scented and comes with flavored sherbet on top. Everyone's eyes widen in surprise with a sip. Who could imagine the refreshing chocolate aroma and flavor spreading through the nose and mouth?!

"We make the syrup for this from cocoa beans, which are roasted to bring out the chocolate flavor. The syrup made with cocoa beans turns in a brown colored syrup, so we had to figure out how to make it transparent. We also make cocoa syrup using this unique method."

By the way, the white sherbet top is also rich in chocolate flavor, made with cocoa syrup. You can choose from three options: berry, champagne, or chocolate-flavored sherbet.

Continuously researching the charm of cocoa and introducing various products into the world, Chef Saegusa is a creator. When we asked about his future goals, an unexpected response came back.

"I want to fill in all the missing pieces of the chocolate puzzle. Big manufacturers have historically made chocolate products, so there are still many mysteries. For example, sourcing cocoa beans and conducting research are divided among various people, forming a single company. Surprisingly, very few people truly understand the whole picture.

Once we complete the puzzle and build the foundation, future generations can make pillars and build their own houses. I see my mission is to create that foundational part."

Being a pioneer means venturing into undiscovered part. "There are so many things that are still unknown. In 2019, I opened a Bean to Bar white chocolate specialty store in Aoyama. When you try something new, challenges and problems keep showing up. Regarding white chocolate, almost no one has ever made it from scratch, so it's an unknown world. When making bonbons from the homemade white chocolate, perfectly formed ones may later deform, or ones that were smooth suddenly start solidifying. It's really difficult to handle," he chuckles

Figuring out how to make delicious chocolate, in the process of research he says he found himself deep in the bushes.

Chef Saegusa stands at the forefront of the chocolate world, creating techniques and theories of a chocolatier. However, he admits there is still much progress to be made, and he does not try to hide his struggles.

His sincere dedication to exploring the potential of cocoa beans seems to lead us into the undiscovered depths of chocolate world.

Written by Mizuho Ajihara
Photo by Satoshi Araya